Bringing my 2010 R1200GSA to ‘prime’ condition

I bought a 2010GSA to upgrade my ride and it has some of the following issues that I need to fix:

1. Drive Shaft & Boot
2. Broken Right Handgrip heater
3. Front Clunk

Drive Shaft & Boot

The 2010 GSA that I just picked up has a tattered Front Drive boot (see picture below).

This boot is identified in the parts image below. Item #4 is what I show above, meanwhile Item #6 appears to be in perfect condition.

How to check it:
https://riders.drivemag.com/news/here-s-why-you-should-check-your-drive-shaft-from-time-to-time

How to replace it:
Option 1: Need to watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsS8y6YlbkM 
Option 2: Need To watch: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3u-FUd2Nmvg&t

Option 3 (JVB) : https://advrider.com/f/threads/r1200gsw-lc-wethead-final-drive-change-and-spline-lube-pictorial.1129815/

Rod

I want #8 but it isn’t available most places.

It appears that Bike Bandit claims to have it, but they simply sell 04 in place of 08. It is marked as #16 on this diagram.

Rear Mud Guard

I want #5, but it isn’t available 🙁

Clunk

I discovered another issue – the front ‘clunks’ when I apply the break while stationary. I need to test it to see if it happens while at speed.

This may coincide with the loose front steering that I thought was due to the Shinko tore; however, I’m now concerned that it is the front ball joint, steering bearing, wheel bearing, wheel bolts or calipers…. time to dig in!

Research Threads:

https://advrider.com/f/threads/front-brake-thunk.643632/

https://www.r1200gs.info/forum/2-general-chatter/3484-top-yoke-bearing-failure.html#/topics/3484

https://www.r1200gs.info/forum/2-general-chatter/3484-top-yoke-bearing-failure.html#/topics/3484

https://www.r1200gs.info/forum/2-general-chatter/3484-top-yoke-bearing-failure.html#/topics/3484

https://advrider.com/f/threads/failed-gaiter-on-telelever-ball-joint-2005-r1200gs.624360/

Info:
http://www.fixya.com/motorcycles/t12865897-2007_bmw_r1200gs_ball_joint_telelever

Replacement Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gY_bqxzT0XY

https://advrider.com/f/threads/1150-loose-steering-or-something-like-that-bad-ball-joint-solved.1213408/

Hello everyone, I started asking questions on JVB’s thread about my final drive here, but I’ve progressed beyond the final drive and I didn’t want to clutter that thread with swing arm questions so I’ve created this post. 

I’m going to document what I learned, how the existing info could be improved for n00bs like me, and I’ll be asking for some insights on the state some bearings and other components.
I’ve attempted to mark my questions clearly with a Question: marker. Thanks in advance for your assistance. 

First things first

• If you’re here looking for how-to, then let me suggest that most efficient way to get familiar with repairs is to buy @JimVonBaden’s videos
• Since my work goes beyond the scope of his videos, I’ve supplemented with a video that I’ve found on YouTube. I am posting these links so you can spend more time fixing and riding than duplicating my research efforts!

When I reference a fiche and part number in parenthesis (Fiche- number) to refer to a parts. I have learned that some of these fiches are slightly out of date, but they should be good enough for discussion. The three fiches that I’m using are located at the bottom of the post and are: 

1. Tension Strut Fiche, will be noted as (TS-x)
2. Rear Wheel Swing Arm Fiche, will be noted as (SA-x)
3. Gear Box, Rear (GB-x)

I’ll be documenting this in a manner I do my own technical notes, so there will be links I find useful – For your sanity, you should probably ignore the links in the parenthesis 😉

SummaryI bought a new-to-me ’10 GSA with 48k miles on it. I knew the front boot needed replacement and the rear wheel had a tiny bit of play. I have since learned that the front ball joint may need replacing and through this experience a few items in the Swing Arm / Final Drive segments need some attention. 

For this Post I will focus on the Swing Arm / Final Drive. 
This is what started the repair/replacement:

Cracked…

Way worse than cracked!

Getting Started…
Final Drive Removal

Learning/Knowledge:
The best info I found to do the Final Drive Oil Change using was JVB’s post from r1200gs.info (link), his advrider thread, and a very well edited YouTube video that extends beyond the Final Drive into the Swing Arm Removal. A combination of these made this job much easier.
I like JVB’s r1200gs.info post better than the other versions, specifically because it includes his Post Mortem where he states that there is a Service Bulletin recommending that you change the flange nut (TS-7). However, you should still look at his nearly identical advrider post to learn from the shared knowledge.

My work:Following JVB’s post and the YouTube Video, I emptied the final drive and it was as advertised. 
Since this is a new-to-me bike I will be taking off the entire tension strut to inspect all the parts, and due to the unknown history of the bike I will be replacing both flange nuts (TS-7). 

Shock, Swing Arm and Drive Shaft removalKnowledge:I used this very well edited YouTube video (same one I mentioned above, direct link to final drive removal) to learn how to complete this portion of the job. There are other videos out there, but I found this one and it has been referenced on this board a few times.
The video is well edited, no background music, and only leaves out a couple things: 

1. Pulling the plastic cover (21) off of the right hand side of the swing arm/final drive. This is a simple plastic cover that presses into the pivot pin (20).
2. Removing the Shock & the Shock Electronic connectors
3. Removing the final drive from the swing arm – the video leaves this out. The Haynes manual was not any assistance either, it says, “pull out the left hand pivot pin, noting the seal” and shows a picture of a hand holding the pivot pin.

My Work / Lesson’s Learned / Methods I used
I’ll do a brief explanation of how I overcame the missing info on the video:

Solution for #1: After some time looking at plastic cover (21), I realized it must be a cap and then I lifted the edge of the plastic cover with a fine tipped screw driver, got my nail under and eased it out. Simple! But I hadn’t worked on this bike before, and nothing is worse than creating a new problem to fix, so I was extra careful – Hopefully this info saves you time!

Solution for #2: Fortunately the Haynes manual discusses how to remove the shock and electronics. This issue was caused by not pinching it hard enough when I initially attempted to disconnect it. After this failed attempt I attempted to pop out the connector, much like the airbox clip, and that didn’t work, it actually made my issue worse.
In order to solve this I removed the shock and twisted it so see the clip – (no pictures because my hands were full). I then put the shock back in place, held by the top bolt and pinched it to take it off. 

Locking side fo the connector – Pinch it!

Solution for #3: the video shows him taking off the final drive from the swing arm while it is still on the bike, but it leaves out the detail that Pivot Pin (SA-16, fiche appears to be out of date) needs to be pressed out in order to remove it. 
They Haynes manual is also lacking in this area, so I did the tried and true method and removed the Final Drive / Swing Arm to my buddy’s place so we could take a look. He’s an engine builder and can fix anything.

Don’t repeat my mistake and take it off all in one piece. Take off the final drive first, then the swing arm. 

After a few minutes of educating him on the fiche and letting him watch some video he realized that I could simply take an extension bar with a socket on it and press out the Pivot Pin (SA-16). Fortunately, he let me do the work so I could regain some of my street cred. 
Thanks to the guidance of the Haynes manual, we paid attention for Gasket Ring (SA-17) upon removal of Pivot Pin (SA-16). We noticed the Gasket Ring was deteriorated and we couldn’t figure out if there was an O-Ring, and Spacer Ring (SA-19) or where it should go. Fortunately, Needle Sleeve (GB-03) appears fine, but needs to be greased.
I realize the realoem site may have old fiches, but the BikeBandit fiche also shows these components (along with the updated Pivot Pin).

Question: Was there ever a variant where the Spacer Ring & O-Ring were not used? Or did this guy’s private mechanic just leave them out?

Swing Arm Bearings

Knowledge:The YouTube video shows him packing grease into the bearings here; however, it doesn’t show him checking the bearings.
My work:
While taking out the Right Pivot Pin (SA-7), there was no tension on the component. I did not need to use a slide hammer, nor did I put any amount of force on it. It simply came off when I gently pulled the Center Screw (SA-9). 
I had the same experience when removing the Left Pivot Pin (SA-10). 
Question: Is the lack of tension on these an issue? If so is it most likely a Bearing or Pin issue? 
NOTE: when I looked at the bike I checked the rear wheel for bearing play and there seemed to be a bit, I’m now guessing that it could have been the Final Drive to Swing Arm or Swing Arm to Frame Play.
Both bearings also seem to have some play along the axis of rotation (see gif below)- but I was hoping someone could give me enough education on these bearings to make the right choice.

Question: Has anyone else experienced this? Is this a sign of wear? A quick bearing number (539816) check shows that the sizes match, but the fiche shows that this should be tapered bearing and I’m not sure if the ones in here tapered. Perhaps this is simply normal movement for a tapered bearing and all is good in GSA-ville?

Thank you for your help!

Reference Fiche

Tension Strut Fiche, will be noted as (TS-x)

Rear Wheel Swing Arm Fiche, will be noted as (SA-x)

Gear Box, Rear (GB-x)